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I want to cut a 56 degree angle on a nominal 2"x6" board on edge using a Milwaukee 10-inch Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw.

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Milwaukee 10-inch Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw

The line on the board is roughly drawn to show what part of the board I want to cut.

The saw can cut up to ~60 degrees in the horizontal axis when the board is on edge, but the blade is too small to cut all the way through the 2x6 board. The blade's bolt bottoms out on the top of the board.

And the saw can only cut up to 45 degrees in the vertical axis, when the board is lying flat.

Is there a way to cut a 2x6 on edge at 56 degrees using this saw that I've overlooked?

Use case: I'm a novice framing the gable-end wall of a cabin with an 8:12 roof. The diagonal board needs a 56 degree cut to cleanly fit into the bottom acute corner of the triangle.

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  • I would challenge whether you actually need a board cut like this. I'd be interested to know how you are using this board. Most roofs don't require fitting anything flat to wall plates like that. Commented yesterday
  • @isherwood I'll share some photos. But you have to keep in mind that this is a temporary mining shack on Ontario crown land (100% legal; no building permit possible; I checked with the municipality) that will be removed in a few years. I'm having fun learning; I'm well aware I'm not an expert and am likely doing things in a way that is not normally done. It is a low-risk, occasional-use building. Note: The 28'x16' cabin has cathedral ceilings with a substantial ridge beam, so the gable walls aren't load-bearing. i.sstatic.net/lGGMmav9.png, i.sstatic.net/fz4fXmg6.png Commented yesterday
  • Thanks. That's about what I was expecting. I'm not convinced you need to work that hard. I don't normally advocate sloppy framing, but here it seems to me a square cut is just as useful as all that putzing. Commented yesterday

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I'd suggest making a 45° block/jig to clamp your board to, and then also clamp that to the saw's fence. Then you can use the saw to compensate for the rest of the angle. This will allow you to make straight cuts beyond the normal range of your saw. Random image from the internet:

45 degree miter saw jig Source: https://www.3x3custom.com/

You can still use this to make bevels, too.

Depending on the reach of your miter saw, you might have to finish the cut with a circular saw, hand saw, or something else.

Seeing as you already have the part of the board furthest from the end cut already, you may be able to lay your board flat in the jig and just slot your blade into the existing cut to get the right angle, then finish off the cut.

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You wrote that you’re cutting “edge on” implying that you have the board upright against the fence and are using the bevel adjustment (blade tilt) to make the cut. This will never get through 6” of wood, let alone 2”.

Your saw will make a miter cut (blade angled) of up to 60 degrees to the right according to the user manual so you should be able to set it to your desired angle and make the cut with the board flat against the bad. It will only go 50 degrees to the left so make sure you’re cutting in the correct direction (you may need to flip the board over),

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  • You gotta make sure the board is perpendicular to the fence though—difficult just relying on the end of the board. You can kind of eyeball parallel-ness with the slot, though. Commented yesterday
  • I think you've misunderstood the request. It was actually asking for a bevel, not a miter. Commented yesterday
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Firstly, in the field I would have made this cut with a circular saw on the end of the board, thereby requiring only a 34° saw angle. It sounds a little sketchy, but with some caution and forethought it can be done.

Otherwise, cut a short stub of 2x6 with about a 15° bevel and use that as a spacer under your work piece. Stand it on end, square with the saw's fence, and lay your work piece on it so that it slopes upward to the blade. You may have to experiment a little bit with saw angle and block position to get the bevel right, but it should be fairly easy. If you have multiple cuts to make, tape the block into position on your saw's table.

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